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4-Nazaré, Porto, and the Douro Valley

  • Writer: Philip Robson
    Philip Robson
  • May 7, 2024
  • 4 min read

Updated: Feb 26

Nazaré: The Day we Went Looking for Giant Waves


Nazaré had been on my radar ever since a buddy back home showed me a video of surfers riding those ridiculous, skyscraper‑sized waves the place is famous for. I remember thinking, I’ve got to see that with my own eyes. When we finally made the day trip, the ocean was calm — no monster surf, no daredevil surfers — but it didn’t matter. The cliffs, the lighthouse, and the whole edge‑of‑the‑world feeling were still worth the trip. It was windy enough to keep most people away, and being early May, the town had that quiet, slightly blustery charm that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into the off‑season in the best possible way. Even without the giant waves, Nazaré still delivered exactly what I hoped for: a place where the Atlantic feels big, wild, and a little unpredictable.


Practicle Tips on Nazare


• Check the wind before you go — Nazaré can be blustery even on warm days, especially near the lighthouse.

• Visit the lighthouse viewpoint (Forte de São Miguel Arcanjo) for the classic big‑wave perspective, even if the surf is calm.

• Go in shoulder season — early May is perfect: fewer crowds, easier parking, and a quieter town vibe.

• Walk the upper town (Sítio) for the best cliff‑top views and a calmer pace than the beachfront.

• Don’t expect giant waves year‑round — they’re seasonal, but the coastline is still dramatic and worth the trip.


Porto: Easy Days on Foot and Along the River


Porto welcomed us with an easy, lived‑in charm that made it simple to settle into a rhythm. Most days started with a couple of kilometres on foot from the hotel into the old town, wandering through narrow streets and eventually drifting down toward the river. I took a guided cruise along the Douro, watched the terraced hills roll by, and crossed the Dom Luís I Bridge—the one designed by Eiffel himself. Yes, that Eiffel. The markets were another regular stop, full of colour, noise, and the kind of everyday life that makes a city feel real. One afternoon I even paused to listen to a Fado player on the street, and for a moment the whole place felt timeless.


Somewhere in the middle of all that exploring, I ended up seeing a doctor who added another round of antibiotics to keep me going. My wife had already bounced back by then, and I managed well enough despite the sarcoidosis doing its usual thing. Even with the health bumps, Porto had a relaxed, steady rhythm that made it easy to enjoy the small moments. It’s a city that doesn’t demand anything from you—you just walk, look around, and let it leave its mark.


Practical Tips for Porto


• Walk the riverfront early — the Douro is calm, the light is perfect, and the crowds haven’t arrived yet.

• Take the Dom Luís I Bridge on the upper level for the best views (and a bit of a thrill if you don’t love heights).

• Try a Francesinha once — it’s heavy, messy, and unforgettable, but definitely a “share or split” situation.

• Visit the markets (Bolhão or any neighbourhood one) for real local life, not just souvenirs.

• Wear good shoes — Porto is all hills, cobblestones, and sneaky staircases that appear when you least expect them.


A Quiet Escape and an Unexpected Friendship

The Douro Valley ended up being one of those places that feels almost unreal when you first arrive. I’d found this spot on Hotels.com — more like a huge villa than a hotel — with just a handful of rooms and a pool that looked straight out over the river and the terraced hills. It was quiet, peaceful, and exactly the kind of place where time slows down whether you want it to or not. It became a great little respite for us — warm sun, a calm pool, and nowhere we needed to be. While we were there, we met this fantastic couple from Philadelphia, the kind of people you instantly click with. We spent time by the pool swapping stories and laughing like we’d known each other for years. Funny enough, they’re the same couple we later met up with in Costa Rica — one of those rare travel friendships that actually sticks. And of course, no trip to the Douro is complete without visiting a port distillery; we went to Sandeman, the iconic brand with “The Don” — the man in the black cape and wide‑brimmed hat — watching over everything. Between the views, the calm, the company, and that classic port tasting, the Douro Valley became one of the highlights of the whole trip.


Tips on Douro Valley


Stay in the hills, not the towns — the views over the river and terraces are the whole point of being there.

Pick a villa or small guesthouse — quieter, more personal, and often with incredible pools overlooking the valley.

Go slow — the Douro is made for lazy mornings, long coffees, and pool time

Drive carefully — the roads are beautiful but narrow, winding, and not for rushing.

Douro Valley Train - Take the train!

Train- The Douro line from Porto to Pinhão is one of Europe’s great scenic rides, hugging the river and passing terraced vineyards the whole way. It’s cheap, easy, and gives you the valley’s best views without needing a car. Window seats matter.


Douro River Boat Cruise

Short cruises from Pinhão give you a slow, peaceful look at the valley from the water—terraces, quintas, and cliffs you can’t see from the road. Full‑day cruises from Porto include meals and wine commentary, but the shorter Pinhão loops are the sweet spot if you’re already in the valley.


Our Take

Take Train for the big sweeping scenery; boat for the calm, immersive river feel. Doing both in one day gives you the full Douro experience without rushing. Other than that ill let the pictures do the talking.


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